March 2021 – Eudes Espino

It’s been six months so it’s definitely time for some adjustments. Some mechanics would even claim that people should bring their bike to a shop to get it serviced as a standard tuneup is required.

Here is a universal list that

Check Battery Connections
Adjust Brakes/Inspect Brake Pads
Clean & Inspect Frame
Lube Chain/Grease Bearings
Torque/Wheel assessment

Having an ordinary bike serviced once or twice a year helps prevent potential problems and keeps the bike running smoothly.

This inspection does not address Gears or Mechanical disc brakes. When gears are making chattering noises or skipping, take it to a professional. A bike with derailleurs and mechanical brakes requires intricate adjustments.

A hydraulic braking system, unless the housing is damaged, just requires brake pad replacements which if installed poorly will cause rubbing and loud noises.

Given the fact that we have four seasons in nyc it is very similar for an electric bike to require some form of tuning. The inspecting of the components properly is important — taking it to professionals every 6 to 12 months is ideal.

Step one in inspecting the battery connections is we’re looking for points of contact that have been exposed to the elements and have become oxidized causing static or a pop when connections are being made.

With both the charger unplugged and the battery turned off, feel free to use these components to clean the points of contact.

Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner (click here)

Q-tip (click here)

Step two is Inspecting the brake pad. In removing the brake pad there are lines directly on the brake pad themselves that indicates if the brake pad is in need of replacement.

A majority of brakes will squeak or rub. As the brake pad becomes worn, the best option is to apply a spray directly on the pads that completely quiets it down

CRC Disc Brake Quiet (click here)

Brake pads vary so remove pads and confirm the part number on the back of brake pads before placing an order since they are not universal.

In installing new pads the worn pads that have been removed would have pushed the position of the piston make sure you reset both sides of the pistons before installing new pads

Step Three is cleaning and inspection of frame. It’s not recommended to ever use a power washer since a majority of bikes are only water resistant.

The best practice is to not aim the power washer directly; stand at a distance and proceed with caution. No one ever follows the don’t use power washer. Wanted to reinforce fear that damage will happen on more than just the electronics portions, certain mechanical components are just water resistant as well.

My preferred method is to use products designed to remove grease and because I work on this bike indoors the products I choose to use are user friendly and safe. Such as

Pedro’s Citrus Degreaser (click here)

This is very strong so feel free to dilute the product with water. Standard spray bottle and simple rags will work.

12 ounce Spray Bottle (click here)

Microfiber Rags (click here)

Spray rag clean and repeat. Avoid brake pads and rotors. Look for rust spots when wiping bike down check weld and the surface area where paint has been scrapped off as well. Example: rear dropout or contact point for a allen bolt head.

For a final finish a clean polish protective solution would do the trick. My top choice

Pedro’s Bike Lust (click here)

Step Four is to lubricate and grease. If it acts like a hinge lubricate. If it has threats apply a brush stroke of grease. Example: a chain uses a liquid lubricant and a bearing or axle thread requires grease. Apply accordingly use a dry rag to capture over flow of either.

Lubricant (click here)

Sta-Lube Marine Grease (click here)

Why use marine grease that’s a great question? I ride throughout winter and salt is applied on the streets of New York. Marine grease will aid in protecting those exposed points caused by loosening and retightening of any nuts or bolts. Apply generously wipe down clean when done like any grease if visible it will collect dirt not to be applied on bike chain.

Final step is making sure everything is torqued down to spec and wheel ride true follow instruction manual accordingly.

3/8 Torque Wrench (click here)

3/8 Socket kit (click here)

3/8 Allen set (click here)

3/8 Adapter (click here)

A torque wrench measures pressure in newton meters this will prevent a nut or bolt from being over tighten or even under tighten.

A nut that is under tightened will come loose and one that is over tightened could damage area of application or worse have the potential or snapping.

It goes without saying a person can spend an entire life time earning the title of wheel smith in the cycling industry so respect the craft. Spokes take all sorts of abuse from riding.

It is highly recommended to check spoke tension. No singular spoke should be loose or missing riding on such a wheel will make it hazardous when taking a turn the wheel could buckle under pressure. Highly recommend bringing it to a professional.

Leave a comment if this helped you with your inspection process. Safe riding see you in the streets

Daily inspection prior to riding (click here)

Rebalancing battery by John Angel (click here)

For serious maintenance or mods

John Angel (click here)

Datshopnyc (click here)

Yerrr! My name is Eudes and I’m based in NYC! On my youtube channel(click here), you’ll see videos about Onyx Motorbikes, Training routines, vlogs, all in one vibe with me lets get them Q&A’s, and etc. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you enjoyed it!

email: eespino183@gmail.com

FTC- This post is not sponsored. Some links are affiliate links which means I earn a small commission if anyone decides to purchase through them. Thank you so much for your support!

I encourage learning everything there is to know about the vehicle that you choose to ride/drive from battery function to mechanical operation.

However there are things that require a mechanics expertise so first and foremost what’s gonna take place in this post is what to look for before an every day ride.

This is not a repair and rebuilding summary. For that I want to acknowledge John Angel and Alvin Bows — these two individuals in the past year have rebuilt, repaired, modded and upgraded an outrageous number of bikes with no signs of stopping.

While John Angel strictly sticks to Onyx as a preferred choice to warranty/repair/mod. Alvin Bows on the other hand (known as Datshopnyc) has worked on a variety of bikes such as the Sur Ron, Huck, Monday and Onyx.

They both have provided enough valid evidence that their work is 100% safe for all riders.

Scroll to the bottom for their contact info.

OK logistics aside let’s get to it.

First step check your tire pressure. An e-bike will compensate effectively masking the problem of low tire pressure and drain the battery much faster than necessary.

I created a list of what your tire pressure should be (click here). For best practice look at the side wall of the tire it will state a number next to the letters P.S.I (pounds per square inch). Going above that number will overinflate the tube/tire which is just as dangerous.

Second step It is important that your brakes are functioning properly. Ebikes are slightly heavier, demanding more from the brakes.

Check that the brakes are engaging. If your bike is designed with regen braking make sure that it’s functional by turning the bike on, applying the regen brake and inspecting to see that brake lights are activated upon engagement. Followed by inspection, one should check that the cut off to the motor is active and working.

Third step check battery level. Honestly I noted this as third because the worst thing that happens is your battery is drained and you aren’t able to ride.

From an electrical point of view making sure that the battery has received a full state of charge is all in creating good habits. When you get home wait an hour before you plug in your bike battery to charge. This is noted specifically by John Angel he has an incredible breakdown of how to properly balance and maintain your battery’s lifecycle. (click here)

Ideally do this with enough time to make sure you can put your bike to charge depending on what type of charger you have. There is nothing worse than rolling up to a ride only to find out you don’t have enough battery. It will either be a very difficult ride or the ride won’t happen at all.

Fourth step is a bounce and twist also know as a drop and shake check. Yes! Sounds silly I know but sit on the bike, bounce or drop on it. This will help you inspect if there are any strange metallic clicking or clanging noises from the rear end that you should be made aware of before your ride.

The twist or shake approach is with both hands firmly holding the handle bar steer left/right and push/pull on the handle bars, inspecting that no cables are damaged and that everything is silent and functional.

Leave a comment if this helped you with your daily routine, safe riding see you out in the streets

6 months maintenance (click here)