It’s been six months so it’s definitely time for some adjustments. Some mechanics would even claim that people should bring their bike to a shop to get it serviced as a standard tuneup is required.
Here is a universal list that
- Check Battery Connections
- Adjust Brakes/Inspect Brake Pads
- Clean & Inspect Frame
- Lube Chain/Grease Bearings
- Torque/Wheel assessment
Having an ordinary bike serviced once or twice a year helps prevent potential problems and keeps the bike running smoothly.
This inspection does not address Gears or Mechanical disc brakes. When gears are making chattering noises or skipping, take it to a professional. A bike with derailleurs and mechanical brakes requires intricate adjustments.
A hydraulic braking system, unless the housing is damaged, just requires brake pad replacements which if installed poorly will cause rubbing and loud noises.
Given the fact that we have four seasons in nyc it is very similar for an electric bike to require some form of tuning. The inspecting of the components properly is important — taking it to professionals every 6 to 12 months is ideal.
Step one in inspecting the battery connections is we’re looking for points of contact that have been exposed to the elements and have become oxidized causing static or a pop when connections are being made.
With both the charger unplugged and the battery turned off, feel free to use these components to clean the points of contact.
Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner (click here)
Q-tip (click here)
Step two is Inspecting the brake pad. In removing the brake pad there are lines directly on the brake pad themselves that indicates if the brake pad is in need of replacement.
A majority of brakes will squeak or rub. As the brake pad becomes worn, the best option is to apply a spray directly on the pads that completely quiets it down
CRC Disc Brake Quiet (click here)
Brake pads vary so remove pads and confirm the part number on the back of brake pads before placing an order since they are not universal.
In installing new pads the worn pads that have been removed would have pushed the position of the piston make sure you reset both sides of the pistons before installing new pads
Step Three is cleaning and inspection of frame. It’s not recommended to ever use a power washer since a majority of bikes are only water resistant.
The best practice is to not aim the power washer directly; stand at a distance and proceed with caution. No one ever follows the don’t use power washer. Wanted to reinforce fear that damage will happen on more than just the electronics portions, certain mechanical components are just water resistant as well.
My preferred method is to use products designed to remove grease and because I work on this bike indoors the products I choose to use are user friendly and safe. Such as
Pedro’s Citrus Degreaser (click here)
This is very strong so feel free to dilute the product with water. Standard spray bottle and simple rags will work.
12 ounce Spray Bottle (click here)
Microfiber Rags (click here)
Spray rag clean and repeat. Avoid brake pads and rotors. Look for rust spots when wiping bike down check weld and the surface area where paint has been scrapped off as well. Example: rear dropout or contact point for a allen bolt head.
For a final finish a clean polish protective solution would do the trick. My top choice
Pedro’s Bike Lust (click here)
Step Four is to lubricate and grease. If it acts like a hinge lubricate. If it has threats apply a brush stroke of grease. Example: a chain uses a liquid lubricant and a bearing or axle thread requires grease. Apply accordingly use a dry rag to capture over flow of either.
Lubricant (click here)
Sta-Lube Marine Grease (click here)
Why use marine grease that’s a great question? I ride throughout winter and salt is applied on the streets of New York. Marine grease will aid in protecting those exposed points caused by loosening and retightening of any nuts or bolts. Apply generously wipe down clean when done like any grease if visible it will collect dirt not to be applied on bike chain.
Final step is making sure everything is torqued down to spec and wheel ride true follow instruction manual accordingly.
3/8 Torque Wrench (click here)
3/8 Socket kit (click here)
3/8 Allen set (click here)
3/8 Adapter (click here)
A torque wrench measures pressure in newton meters this will prevent a nut or bolt from being over tighten or even under tighten.
A nut that is under tightened will come loose and one that is over tightened could damage area of application or worse have the potential or snapping.
It goes without saying a person can spend an entire life time earning the title of wheel smith in the cycling industry so respect the craft. Spokes take all sorts of abuse from riding.
It is highly recommended to check spoke tension. No singular spoke should be loose or missing riding on such a wheel will make it hazardous when taking a turn the wheel could buckle under pressure. Highly recommend bringing it to a professional.
Leave a comment if this helped you with your inspection process. Safe riding see you in the streets
Daily inspection prior to riding (click here)
Rebalancing battery by John Angel (click here)
For serious maintenance or mods
John Angel (click here)
Datshopnyc (click here)
Yerrr! My name is Eudes and I’m based in NYC! On my youtube channel(click here), you’ll see videos about Onyx Motorbikes, Training routines, vlogs, all in one vibe with me lets get them Q&A’s, and etc. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you enjoyed it!
email: eespino183@gmail.com
FTC- This post is not sponsored. Some links are affiliate links which means I earn a small commission if anyone decides to purchase through them. Thank you so much for your support!